Fleas  
Lice  
Ticks  

FLEAS

Most dog owners are quickly introduced to fleas. Just let your dog come into contact with another dog harboring fleas and you are in business.

Four species of fleas are associated with dogs and human beings. These are the human flea, dog flea, cat flea and the dog and cat "stick-tight" flea. Ordinarily, each of these species prefers a specific host, but will use any warm-blooded creatures as substitutes when the need arises. Fleas may be found on any part of the dog's body, although the "stick-tight" flea more or less localizes in and around the dog's ears.

The flea has a relatively simple life history. The female may deposit her eggs on the dog or in sand, furniture, dog bed, blankets or crevices in the home or doghouse. After a few days, the flea eggs develop into larvae which weave cocoons. These cocoons serve as a protection for the larvae. During the cocoon stage, the larvae turn into pupae which feed on organic matter incorporated into the cocoon. The adult flea emerges from the cocoon in 10 to 14 days, with the whole cycle taking approximately 30 days. One female flea can lay up to 500 eggs in her lifetime.

Before emerging from the cocoon, the flea pupae may stay dormant until favorable conditions exist; when temperatures are above freezing. Very often there are no signs of fleas, then all at once a swarm of adult fleas appear as if from nowhere. The adult flea is able to withstand cold weather, but a severe winter will greatly reduce the flea population.

Adult fleas will stick to the warmest parts of the dog during cold weather. The warmest parts are those with the most hair, such as the chest, neck ruff and root of the tail. Here, the fleas congregate until the weather warms up, then they move and spread over the dog's body.

When the dog is heavily infested with fleas, you will have to de-flea him. The standard treatment for fleas consists of using a powder or dip. The dip is more effective, since it has a longer residual time than the powder. A weekly dip or dusting is recommended.

A new method of eradicating fleas (also lice and ticks) and keeping them off the dog has recently been developed. It is an oral medication, in tablet form, and has shown some promising results. The tablet Ectoral, is manufactured by the Pitt-man Moore Company, Indianapolis, Indiana. Dogs are given the tablet at specified intervals and, as long as they keep getting the tablets, the fleas, lice and ticks stay away.

The concept of oral treatment for the elimination of external parasites is not new. An oral treatment for ringworm and athlete's foot in human beings has been in use for several years. Ectoral is dispensed only by a veterinarian. Unfortunately, this method of distribution prevents a wider use of the oral method. It just means another trip to the veterinarian. Until the product is "sold over the counter," the average dog owner will have to rely on dusting, spraying or dipping to get rid of fleas, lice and ticks.

De-fleaing the dog

Dusting. Stand the dog on newspapers and dust him thoroughly with a nontoxic insecticide. One containing lindane, chlordane, rotenone or pyrethrum is safe. Make sure that you get the powder in beyond the outer coat and on the skin. Avoid getting any powder in the dog's eyes. You can protect his eyes with Vaseline or eye ointment. After dusting, comb out the dead fleas onto the newspapers. Roll up the papers and burn them.

Spraying: Insecticides for fleas, lice and ticks also come in sprays that are put into pressurized cans or plastic containers. They usually contain the same ingredients as the powders and dips. The cost is higher, though.

Dipping: While dipping the dog is more of a chore, it has a longer residual effect than either spraying or dusting. Put enough water in the tub to reach the dog's stomach and add a commercial dipping compound. Follow directions on the label as to how much to add. Submerge the dog's body in the solution or pour the solution over the dog, avoiding his face. Again, protect his eyes with Vaseline or eye ointment. After thoroughly wetting the dog, lift him out of the tub and wrap a large towel or old blanket around him and mop up the excess solution. Don't rub him dry. Allow the solution to dry on him. Keep him in the house until he is dry; then stand him on some newspapers and comb out the dead fleas. The dried solution on his body and hair will afford some protection against reinfestation. If the dog lives outdoors, reinforce the dip with a dusting of insect powder.

Merely knocking the fleas off the dog is only part of the job of flea control. You will have to spray the doghouse or other place where the dog may live. His bed and blanket or bedding should also come under scrutiny and be sprayed or dusted. When spraying the doghouse, make sure that you get the spray into crevices that may shelter flea eggs.

The housedog presents more of a problem. While you can easily de-flea the dog, you have a bigger chore when it comes to the house. Use the vacuum cleaner in cracks and crevices. Bedding, carpets, rugs and stuffed furniture should be sprayed. If you already have an infestation of fleas in the house, you will have to spray at least once a week to break up the 30-day life cycle of the fleas.